Manga Studio: Setting Tones

To bring life and dimension to your comic, you have to use tones. Tones vary from gradations, emotional effects and even backgrounds. To see the collection of tones available, hit Window > Tones or F6. Manga Studio Debut has over 1800 tones to use while EX, the professional (and more expensive version) has over 3000. An easy way to see all the tones is to click on Help > Materials Catalog which will open up a 92-page PDF file listing all the tones and then some in both Debut and EX.

When the Tones Palette opens, you will see a window like above with three columns. The left column is a very useful explorer which you can use to quickly move from one folder to another. The middle column previews all the tones within the selected folder in the first column and the right-most column shows a preview. Here, I have it set up to show a large preview. Hit the down-arrow to choose between a Small or Large preview and change the percentage to it’s right for further zoom ins or outs.

Before we begin placing tones, I highly suggest you make a copy of your originals line art. Making a duplicate will come in handy just in case you make a mistake setting down the tones.







To make a copy of a layer, just click on the layer, then drag and drop it on the page icon with the star at the corner next to the folder up above. This will create an exact replica of your original work automatically named after the original layer with “Copy” attached afterwards.

The fastest way to set a tone is to paste them. First, you will need to select the Magic Wand tool from the Tools Palette as seen on the right. Once you have selected that, choose the section of your drawing that you would like to fill with tone.

Flashing dashed lines or marching ants as they are called will appear marking the area that was selected. As you can see below, the selected area is rather large encompassing the brim of the hat plus a section to the right which shouldn’t have been selected.

To set tones properly, the lines within a selected area must be closed. Any gaps will cause problems like below which means you have to go back and close those gaps! Make the corrections in the original line art and make a copy of it once more. You can delete the old layer by dragging and dropping it on top of the trash icon.

Tip: To quickly deselect a selection, hit CTRL + D

 

Open the Tones Palette if you haven’t already. When you’ve found the perfect tone to use, drag and drop it’s thumbnail into the page. Even if you drop it outside of the selected area, the tone will automatically be pasted into the selected area only.








Tip: If you have more than one area that will have the same tone, hold down “Shift” while clicking on the areas you want selected.

A new layer will pop up indicating the tone that’s used complete with a thumbnail. Make sure you remember to reselect your line art layer before you start on placing new tones!

For more options on how you place the tone, you can double click on the tone which will bring up a Tone Properties window like the one above. Check off the box at the bottom titled Show Image on the Page to see a preview of the tone on your page.

To move the whole page, select the hand icon up top and move the page around. Select the cross-arrow to move the tone in the selected area around. To rotate it, click on the circular icon. Click on Paste on Page if you like it or hit Close if you don’t.

If you later decide to have another area with the same tone or forgot to select an area that’s part of a whole, reselect the area again and paste the tone. This produces a new layer with the same name as seen to the right. You can keep them apart or you can merge them together to make things easier for you to keep track of things. Merge by right clicking on the upper layer, hit Merge Down and hit okay at the new window.


You can also paste multiple tones on top of each other for more effects. Just select the same areas and paste on the tone as usual.

Also, you can change the transparency of a tone by changing the percentage above in the layers palette. Just make sure to select the proper layer before you start changing the transparency setting.

<< Transparency percentage, new layer, folder and trash can icons in the Layers Palette makes things easier. Use them well!

Take toning a step further by digitally etching it. Etching is the term used when bits of tone are scratched off creating a highlighted effect. You can do this by using one of the drawing tools like the pen, make the color white by clicking on the white box at the tools palette and draw on top of the tones. Remember to create a new layer just for your etches!

Drawing white on top of tone is the digital version of etching.>>

Article source : www.mangatutorials.com/2008/manga-studio-setting-tones

Manga Studio: Drawing and Importing Images Part II

B. Drawing with Pencil , Pen & Brush















You have the option of drawing directly into Manga Studio. To do so, just hit one of the drawing tools in the Tools Palette and start drawing into the page. Here’s a list of the drawing tools you can use:

1. Line (Curve, and Polyline)
2. Rectangle (Oval, and Polygon)
3. Pen
4. Pencil
5. Marker
6. Eraser
7. Fill (aka Bucket)
8. Airbrush
9. Pattern Brush

Hit the arrow to quickly change the line size of the tool or in the case of number 1 and 2, choose another shape.

Before you start drawing, make a new layer, rename it and then choose your drawing tool and begin drawing. This way, you keep your pieces separate and if you make a mistake, one part of the drawing will not affect the other. Refer to page 5 to refresh yourself about layers.

Note: A new layer will be created automatically when you choose the Line or Rectangle tool so just watch out when you use the other seven drawing tools.

Most of the drawing tools have the same tool options being the ability to change the line width of the “ink” that’ll come out onto the page. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll find in tools number 3 to 9 as marked in the previous page:

Size – the size of resulting “ink” mark made on the page, sized in millimeters. The higher the size, the bigger the line width.







Correction – this feature automatically smoothes out wobbly drawing lines. The higher the number, the greater it will smooth out shaky lines.

Opacity – use this to make the output as transparent or solid as you like. Drawing at 50% opacity, the resulting line will appear half-solid.

Pen Tool
G, Maru, Kabura, School, Brush, Gray Use – most of these specify a certain pen nib popularly used by mangaka or professional comic creators with preset sizes.






Pen & Pencil Tool
In & Out – this will create sharp points at the beginning and end of your lines.

Pencil Tool
Thin, Medium, Thick, Mechanical Pencil, Hard, Soft – these represent different pencil types you come across in real-life with differences in output and thickness.


Airbrush
Density & Dot Size – this will determine how thickly the “spray” will fall onto the page plus how big the individual “sprays” are.
Random Dots – always keep this checked to create as natural a spray output as possible.

Fill Tool
Allowable Error in Color – this tells the program at what point to let the fill override “colors” that aren’t solidly of a certain color.











Pattern Brush
The pattern brush has numerous patterns that you can “draw” onto the page from typical brush strokes to patterns such as stars, hatches, and hearts.

Interval – specifies the length where another pattern will start from the last pattern. The smaller the number, the closer the pattern will be to one another.

Click on Size, Opacity and Interval for more options.

The Line and Rectangle Tools have the option of becoming other shapes. Click on the tool to bring up their specific tool option as shown on the right.

As specified earlier, the Line tool can also bring up Curves and Polyline shapes whereas the Rectangle tool has Ellipses and Polygons. To toggle between them, click on the appropriate thumbnail image beneath the palette title. Doing so will bring up their specific options. Most of these have been explained in the previous page. The single difference is under the Polygon Tool which has a “Sides” box which you can use to control how many sides the resulting shape will have.

When creating a shape, just click where you want to create it. Then drag till you see the desired shape you want then click again. Now, you have the option of rotating the new shape. Hit the mouse again to set it permanently. If you messed up, hit the Undo button.

To use the Line Tool, click once to set the starting point of the line then keeping your finger down on the left mouse button, move your mouse to the point you want and click again to set the line.

Working the Curve tool is similar to the Line Tool except that after setting the end point of the line, you then have to move your mouse to the direction you want the curve to be. Click for a third time to set it.

Using the Polyline Tool is different from the other two. For one thing, you don’t have to keep your finger down on the left mouse button after setting up the starting point of the line. Just keep clicking at the points you want the Polyline to turn. When you’re done making the Polyline, double click and this will set it. If you made a mistake setting one of the points, press the Esc key and it’ll undo the last point.

As was suggested earlier, use layers to keep the lines separate. This way, should you make a mistake, the others will not be disturbed when you erase or delete the unwanted result.

When you’re done setting up all the lines to your satisfaction, you can merge all the drawing layers together to create one uniform set of lines which will be needed when toning (i.e. setting patterns).

Article source : www.mangatutorials.com/2008/manga-studio-drawing-and-importing-images-part-ii

Manga Studio: Drawing and Importing Images Part I

From here onwards, there are two ways to proceed:














A. Importing your work into Manga Studio (i.e. a scanned page, artwork drawn in another program, etc.), or
B. Drawing straight into Manga Studio using the built-in Pencil, Pen, and Brush tools

If you’d like to go straight to drawing, head to Part II, otherwise read on:

A. Importing Images
The first thing you will need is your already-drawn artwork. It could be pencil sketches or an inked piece. If it’s just pencil sketches, you will have to take an extra step to produce a finished inked work using Manga Studio. With those in hand, let’s start importing…

With your page(s) open, click on File, Import and then select one of the following:

Image File…
TWAIN…
Select TWAIN device…

TWAIN refers to your scanner. Select TWAIN if you want to scan your image or choose Select TWAIN device if you have more than one scanner connected to your computer (i.e. flatbed scanner, 4-in-1 printer, etc.)

When you select your scanner, it will bring up a new window as seen above. Choose the appropriate settings under the Main tab and hit Preview. This will bring up a preview of the scan on the right.

Drag and drop your mouse or move your mouse over the boxes surrounding the image in the preview area to select what part of the page you want scanned. After you’ve done that, hit OK at the bottom and it will now scan your selection into Manga Studio and onto your page.

If your scan becomes washed out as seen above, go to Bitmap Technique in the Import Images window and change the setting from Threshold to Dither. If the result doesn’t clearly show the image as seen below, play around with the settings in the Import Images window until your scan turns out well.

Also, don’t forget to name the layer under Layer Name.

Now, we’re going to adjust the size of the image. Since our example is a full-page spread; meaning the whole page is the panel; it will be adjusted to fill most of the page. If your scan will fit a smaller panel, adjust yours accordingly.

To adjust the imported image, you can use the Scale setting seen in the Import Images window below. Move the slider up or down or type in a number into the field. You can also use your mouse by clicking on one of the boxes surrounding the drawing and dragging and dropping it to a size you like.

NOTE: Try to keep the main points of your image and text within the boundaries of the central box.






















Traditionally, anything beyond may be cut off when it goes to the printing presses. Computers printers too have a boundary they may not print beyond so keep the focus centralized.

Click the down arrow under “Layer Type” to switch between Raster Layer and Sketch Layer. Sketch Layer will keep the original look of the imported file. For example, this background will remain in color if left under Sketch Layer. To turn it to black and white, choose Raster Layer.

Fiddle with the remaining options to get different results. Under Subtractive Method, choose Threshold for a stark black and white contrast (shown below) or choose Dither or Diffusion for a more subtle and smooth effect. Click on the Move and Transform tab for scaling options. Adjust the numbers in the text boxes or click the image and drag and drop to resize the imported file. Hit Auto Adjust… for more pre-made size options.

Hit the down arrow next to Position and choose one of the four options. These will automatically resize your imported image. Make further adjustments by choosing the alignment by clicking on Up, Down, Left or Right under Direction. When you’re satisfied with the results, hit the OK button to get back to the page or hit Cancel to get back to the page without adding the imported image.

Note: At the top of Move and Transform tab are some arrows. The right-most arrow flips the image horizontally while the arrow to the left flips it vertically. The other two arrows undo and redo your actions.

That’s all there is to importing images. Let’s move on to drawing!

Article source : www.mangatutorials.com/2008/manga-studio-drawing-and-importing-images-part-i

Manga Studio: Advanced Paneling Techniques

In the previous tutorial, Making Panels the Easy Way, we learned how to create panels using the whole page. But what if you want to make panels that “bleed” to the edge of the page? What about making irregularly shaped panels? Here, I’ll teach you how to do that in Manga Studio.

To make panels that go to the edge, all you have to do is hit the Object Selector on your Tools Palette. Once you select that, go back to your panels and click on the panels to start shifting the lines. Your shifted lines will turn red and will become blue once you set it by “dropping” it where you want it. Click and drag on the middle of the panel line to move it left or right, up or down. Select the corners if you want to make arrow-like panels or bloated squares.





To expand your panel in another way, first select a whole panel by pressing Ctrl and then the panel. This will make the lines on the panel turn red. Next, go to the menu bar and hit Ruler > Panel Ruler > Expand. This will bring a small window with the following options shown at left. Below, I have some examples of how your panel will turn out with certain selections. Play around with the options to get it right. If you don’t like the result, you can always hit the undo button or you can further customize it by using the first method I mentioned.

You can also merge panels together by selecting two panels by holding down Ctrl and selecting the two panels you want to merge. Both will turn red. At that, go to Ruler > Panel Ruler > and Merge which will automatically merge the two together. Hit undo if you change your mind. Click outside of the selected panels to deselect them.

If you’re not fussy with your panels, you can quickly place panels by selecting the whole page or a single panel, then go to Ruler > Panel Ruler and Split by Interval. A window pops up with several options. Hit the ones you want and it’ll automatically cut your panels as you can see below. You can also change the thickness of your panel by selecting it and go to Ruler > Panel Ruler > Change Settings. The top portion allows you to change the thickness of the panel frame while the lower half allows you to add another line next to your panel.

Last but not least, there is one last step you need to do before you’re done with your panels. You have to ink them so they show up in the final page. To do this, right click on the layer called “Panel Ruler Layer” under the Ruler heading. Select Rasterize Panel Layer. This will bring up a big window with lots of options. Type in a name for your panel layer. Choose Vector or Raster (I left mine at raster). Choose if you want to convert each panel to their own layer or make one layer for all the panels. One layer will make things easier to keep track of but individual layers allows you to go back and fiddle with the panel some more like moving it around. Finally, select how thick the margin the panels will have and hit OK. This will set Manga Studio to generating the new layer or layers and it will appear on the top header under Image.

Individual layers will show each panel along with a thin border line around it. To help keep track of the layers, the panel turns red if that is the currently selected panel layer. Also, if you look closely, you’ll see that the lines are now blueish-black. That means it’s been inked.

If you’re really set on making panels from scratch, there is a freeform option where you manually draw, align and ink your panel. You can create oddly shaped panels and even circular ones. To get started click on the Panel Maker icon on the Tool Palette. This will bring up your tool option which will show a bunch of shapes. Choose one of the shapes and drag and drop on the page. If you look in your layers window, you’ll notice a new layer and your panel selected (it’s highlighted in red).

Keep setting panels till you’re satisfied. If you dislike something, you can erase the whole layer by dragging the layer and dropping it into the garbage can icon above it. You’ll notice that some shapes will automatically have borders while others do not. For those without borders, all you’ll see is a thin blue line. Double click on that layer. It will bring you to a closeup of the layer. Hit the Magic Wand in the Tools Palette and select the panel. Marching ants will appear. You’ll need to right-click, choose Select Outline, and hit OK. This will create a border along the panel unless you choose something else. If you want to create a black panel, you can hit Fill Selection instead which will turn the whole panel black.

Now that you have a border around the panel, hit the X on the upper right-hand corner – NOT the red X which will close out Manga Studio! This will take you back to the whole page. Keep doing these steps till you have all the panels inked. If you want to merge them to create one panel layer, right click on the panel layer and hit Merge Down. Before you do that, make sure the layer beneath it is a panel layer and not one of your drawings!

 

Article source : www.mangatutorials.com/2008/manga-studio-advanced-paneling-techniques

Manga Studio: Paneling Made the Easy Way

Before we begin laying out panels, it’s good to have an idea of how your story will be presented before you create your panels. This is called storyboarding which is basically a rough comic representing a sequence of events and is often done for films, games, and ads to name a few.

I suggest you quickly sketch out how you will “tell” your story right now if you haven’t done so already. If not, you may end up revising your work too many times and ultimately loose time and patience.

Pages may be laid out from simple boxed panels to more complex hexagonally-shaped panels and floating panels. Check out manga’s to see a variety of paneling styles. Pick which one will work best with your comic and stick to it throughout your story for a uniform look.

To start creating panels, you first have to create a new layer. Go to your Layer Palette and click on the icon next to the percent and right arrow as shown to the left.

Once clicked, it will open up a new window as pictured below. Rename the layer appropriately — I’ve named mine “Panel Layer” – and then under Layer Type, choose Panel Ruler Layer. This will bring you back to your page. At first glance, you may not have noticed any changes but if you click the Undo and Redo buttons on your History Palette, you will see that there is a difference, though slight.

There is now a crosshair, the plus sign, in the middle of the page plus the border for the page should now be a thicker blue. Also, if you look in your Layers Palette, your new panel layer should now be listed.

 

 

Click on your panel layer to activate it. You will see it become highlighted and a pen icon should now appear next to the eye. This means that you are currently working on that layer and it is ready to be modified.

If you are unfamiliar with layers, think of it as several sheets of transparent paper stacked one on top of the other. Each layer builds upon the layer above and below it to create a complete image. For example, the lowest layer is the original pencil sketch, with the finer pen lines in the middle layer and finished with some tones up top.

 

 

The neat thing about this is that if you work on one layer, it will not affect the rest! Of course, if you forget to click on the appropriate panel you meant to work on, it can cause some problems. For cases such as this, you can do several things:

1. Use the Undo button in your History Palette
2. Copy the layer by right-clicking on it and choosing Duplicate Layer, and/or
3. Save your work continuously and under several file names

If none of those work, then you’ll have to start your layer from scratch. Now that you know about layers, let’s start making panels!

The first thing you have to do is click on the button that looks like a ripped page in your Tools Palette. This is called the Panel Ruler Cutter. Now, all you have to do is move your mouse over the page. “Drag and drop” from one end of the large panel to the other. As you are dragging and dropping, you will see a thin black line emerge. This is to gauge the straightness of the cut being made. In other words, if you see jagged edges, the cut will not be straight.

When you let go of the mouse button, Manga Studio will automatically cut the large panel over the area you drew the black line. Keep redoing the process until you get the panel layout that you want.

If you’re having problems creating the panels, make sure the black line begins on the blue line and ends on a blue line or else it will not be detected by Manga Studio.

On the image below, we have one panel that was done correctly but for the bottom half, it will not split into two. If you look closely, the black line does not meet the bottom blue line. If the mouse button was released now, Manga Studio will not recognize the command and the panel will remain as-is.

Tip: If you are unsure about how you will lay out your page, you can create duplicates of your panel layout. All you have to do is right click on the current panel you want a copy of and click on Duplicates. This will create an exact replica of the panels you did.

To the right is an example of duplicates. The original was named Panel Layer while the new layer was renamed to New Layer. You can do this trick to any other layer that you want to see in different ways and choose the one that you like best.

Article source :  www.mangatutorials.com/2008/manga-studio-paneling-made-the-easy-way

Manga Studio: Getting Started

Manga Studio is for the comic and manga artists who are interested in creating their own comic books. It includes everything a comic book artist would need from automated pages, balloons, panels and even tones. Drawings may also be directly done in Manga Studio or imported and operates much like other professional graphic programs even with its support of graphic tablets. The following tutorial will teach you how to get started on using Manga Studio and on your way to creating on your own comic creations.

I. Getting Started

Upon opening Manga Studio, you will be greeted with the following scene shown below which I will call the “Work Area” or “Workspace”. This area comprises, from the top, the menu bar and the tool bar and floating windows called palettes.

The palettes you should see, from the left, are the Tools Palette, the [Hand] Tools Options, Layer Properties and Tones. These may or may not be on the workspace and if they aren’t, they can be called back to the workspace by clicking on Window on the menu bar and then on whatever bar or palette you want shown. If a palette window option is grayed out, that means that it is only available when a page is opened.

Speaking of pages, let’s go and open one up…

II. Setting Up a Page

Getting a new page up on the screen is an easy task. All you have to do is click on File, New, and then either Story or Page. New Story will generate multiple pages while New Page will only produce one.

Hitting on either will bring up another window which will ask you for details on the page you want to create. The default is A4 but you can change it to any other available sizes or customize it to your needs. Hit OK when you’re satisfied with the settings.

Note: Image depicted below is from New Page. New Story will provide additional options such as which way the pages will be read. (i.e. left-to-right or right-to-left)

III. What They Do: Tools & Palettes

When you opened the new page or story, you should have also been greeted with several new window palettes, namely, Navigator, Layer and Layer Properties. Before I begin explaining what these are for, move them around the workspace so you can actually see the page and work without hindrance. Maximize the window that houses the page you will be working with for a better view.

Tools Palette
This window houses all the graphic tools that you need from pencils, brushes, lettering, eraser, lines, boxes, and so forth. By clicking on the icon of the tool, it will turn it on. Some tools have a small triangle on the lower-right. Click on that to see more tools grouped underneath.

Tools Options
If a certain tool selected in the Tools Palette has any other features that you can customize, it is shown here. For example, if you choose Pencil or Brush, you can set the width of the tool (i.e. how thick a line it will produce), among other things.

Tones
Easy access to tones that can help make your comic pop by providing mood, shading, backgrounds, and other effects. If you’re just beginning on a new page, you can close or minimize this.

Navigator
This is an easy way to move around your page from zooming in, zooming out, or moving from one part of your page to another. Just place your mouse over the thumbnail of your page and “drag and drop” to the place you want to go to.

History
An easy way to keep track of what you’ve done without having to think about it! You can undo or redo moves that you have done using the arrow buttons within the palette.

Article source : www.mangatutorials.com/2008/manga-studio-getting-started

Sann’s Oekaki Tutorial Using Shi-Painter

First of all, I’m not a professional artist or super-awesome-l33t at Oekaki. (In fact, I haven’t done any oekaki until lately again) I simply made this tutorial to help anyone who may find it helpful, and hopefully it will give those who have never tried oekaki before an idea of what to do in oekaki.

Second of all, this tutorial only shows how I usually draw oekakis, but there are thousands of different ways to do them. There are also millions of extremely professional oekaki tutorials that I would suggest everyone to look them up.

Third of all, I was going to list all the functions and stuffs but… I got lazy. So feel welcome to post any question you may have and I’ll try my best to answer them all at the forum.
I don’t know why my oekaki is in Mandarin Chinese, or is it suppose to be like that? So sorry if the translation is wayyy off and just bear with me:


(Click on image for a larger view)

The rest is pretty straight forward, so let’s move on to the drawing part!

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STEP 1 – LEARN HOW TO LAYER!: 

Here is a picture of how I usually use layers:



Layer is a great way to draw/color different things. It will make sure that you don’t overlap your drawings/colors and make your life ALOT easier. Bascially always have a layer for your line art (which is usually on top of your colors) and just create different layers for different colors you’d put on the drawing. You can open the little layer window by left clicking on where ‘Layer 0′ is. You can ‘hide’ the layer by right-clicking on the same spot. You can also change the opacity of the layer by using the slide bar (which default is 100%).

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STEP 2 – DO THE LINEART FIRST! : 



Before you color, you should always finish your line art first. (Make sure you only use one layer to do your line art! Unless you are trying something really complex) There are also different ways to do line art, in this picture I simply just did everything with pencil. Though you can always use the pen tool to get a more smoothing, soft touch to your lineart.

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STEP 3 – ON TO THE COLORING! : 



Once you’ve done your lineart, it’s time to color! (Yay!) Always start out with the lightest color (except highlights), then shading it into darker color(s). Here I used a cel-type ish of coloring style. You may adjust different types of color by sliding the R-G-B slider, don’t just use the default color template!

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STEP 4 – MORE COLORING! (Don’t be afraid to redo!) : 



I didn’t like how the coloring was turning out, so I tried a different coloring style by erasing the old colors and making everything soft with the water color tool.

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STEP 5 – MORE MORE COLORING — AND SHADING! : 



After the skin I moved on to the hair! Here I used a darker color for shading and make it look like manga style-ish. Remember to use more than one color when shading if you wanted more details. Don’t forget to use the ‘Darken’ function to shade too if you don’t know what color to use for shading.

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STEP 6 – TIME FOR SOME HIGHLIGHTS! : 



Don’t forget the highlights after shading! Here I simply used a lighter color to make the highlights stand out.

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STEP 7 – CLEAN UP UNWANTED COLORS! : 



Simply erase the colors that went outside of your lineart with an eraser tool, just be careful and don’t accidently clear everything.

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STEP 8 – MORE HIGHLIGHTS! : 



I just added more highlights with the pen tool, you can also use ‘Lighten’ + ‘Darken’ function to tweak your drawing. You can see that I have the skin on a different layer and what it’d look like without the lineart.

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STEP 9 – BACKGROUND TIME! :
 


Once you’ve done everything, it’s time to move onto the background!

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STEP 10 – FINISHING UP: 



Here I’ve used the ‘RE-MASK’ tool so that I could change the color of my lineart. I also added little curls and stuffs for the hair.

TADA~ and now you have your final product!

RANDOM TIPS THAT ARE REALLY USEFUL (to me at least): 

- Right click on your mouse is your friend. When you right click on a color it will work as an ‘eyedropper’ tool, meaning it will find and set the color to the color that you right clicked on. You can also draw anything while holding down your left mouse button, then right click to do a quick undo.

- Use ‘UNDO’ as much as you want. If you don’t like something you just did? Simply undo it. Don’t ever worry if you have to redo the whole thing.

- Play with opacity! See the grey slidebar that says ‘A255′? Play around with it, you can slowly gradiant your color with it if you master it!

- Play with R-G-B slider! You can often get some really neat colors!

- Practice, practice, practice! Though oekaki can sometimes takes hours to do, but practice makes it perfect! I look back at some of the oekakis I did years ago, and boy, it’s …….. horrible. >_> But now I look at my current oekakis I actually feel satisfied with some of them!

- For the love of god, and your precious wrist/hand, get a tablet.
Though it’s not ‘unpossible’ to draw oekaki with mouse (in fact, there are alot really, really talented artists who can draw professional looking oekakis by mouse), but having a tablet would help ALOT. (But don’t expect your art will look all professional in a day if you dont practice, even if you have a tablet. )

For fun purposes here are some of the oekakis I did throughout year 2002 til now (with/without tablet):



(with a mouse)



(with a mouse)



(with a mouse)



(with a tablet!)



(yayy tablet~)

The rest are all with a tablet










Anyway, I hope some of you guys find this helpful, and THANK YOU for reading!

Article source : www.mangatutorials.com/2010/sanns-oekaki-tutorial-with-shi-painter